Nerja is the largest of the three villages — a proper town with white-washed squares, a promenade and a long string of beaches. It has everything you need without feeling like a resort, and enough going on that you could spend two weeks here without getting bored.
Beaches
Burriana beach
The main beach — wide, sandy, with chiringuitos and sunbeds. Best before 10am in summer.
Playa de la Calahonda
A small cove just east of the Balcón. Reached by steps. Often quieter than Burriana.
Playa de Maro
Technically Maro, but a 15-minute drive from Nerja. Worth the effort.
Where to eat
El Chaleco
Consistently the best fish in town. Book ahead in summer.
Restaurante Ayo
Famous paella served outdoors on the beach. Iconic, touristy, still worth it.
Bar El Molino
Local tapas bar in the old town. Busy at lunch, quiet at dinner. Order the gambas.
Getting there
Nerja is 55km east of Málaga airport. Taxi takes about 45 minutes. There's also a direct bus (ALSA) from Málaga every 30 minutes.